Exhaust Install

August 13th, 2009
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I finally got the exhaust pipes installed. I bought a pair of Thrush Welded mufflers from Summit Racing for only $30 each. They are basically a ripoff of the 40 series Flowmaster muffler. I chose them because I like the sound and mainly because of their low price. I also bought a 180 degree mandrel bent pipe to make turn down tips out of. Some Hedman collectors were also purchased. I took all this to Jon’s Brake and Muffler in Rowlett, TX to get it installed. He did a great job in my opinion and it sounds great. Everything is 3″ pipe from the header collectors to the turn downs.


Here it is up on the lift with open headers. She was LOUD!




One pipe done!








I still want to flip the clamps upside down to make it look cleaner and paint the pipes and dumps black to make it a bit more stealthy looking. I’m impressed with how well everything is tucked up nice and tight.

Autometer Gauges

June 7th, 2009
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In order to keep a sharp eye on the new engine, I installed some new gauges. They are Auto Meter Z-Series gauges with electric sending units.



V8 Installed

June 7th, 2009
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Here’s the new engine after we got it all bolted in. Still needs lots of stuff to be connected, but overall it fits pretty nice. dsc02980




Canton Racing Oil Pan

June 7th, 2009
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The oil pan I selected for the 383 is a Canton Racing brand pan made specifically for 1st/2nd generation Chevy II’s. It has a notched sump to allow the pass through of the steering centerlink.  The part number is 13-170 and it cost me about $250.00 at carshopinc.com. It comes with a crank scraper and windage screen to control the oil. It’s a very nice high quality pan with thick metal and great engine fit. The only problem I had was it didn’t fit quite right with the centerlink. As a result, my steering radius is reduced somewhat. Overall it worked out though.

The crank scraper had to be notched to clear the crankshaft. A sharpie marker, die grinder, cut-off wheel, and some trial and error made it all fit together without hitting.



The centerlink passes through the pan at an angle and the passenger’s side is low and close enough that , when turned tight, the inner tie rod stud hits the pan. I’ve talked to others with this pan that didn’t have this problem so maybe my car is just special. I tried both the straight and curved styles of pitman arms, tried spacing down the pitman arm mounting bracket, and tried two different centerlinks all to get it to fit better. I ended up using the curved pitman arm with no spacers, and I cut the inner tie rod stud shorter. Also, instead of a cotter key, I used a peice of wire to run through the castle nut and stud on the inner tie rod to gain some clearance. I adjusted my steering stops to assure that the steering would not hit the pan. Overall I can now turn the wheel 1.75 revolutions to the left and 1.5 revolutions to the right.





CPP Steering Stops

June 7th, 2009
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I called up CPP and ordered a set of steering stops for the lower control arm kit. I needed them because without stops I could turn too much and hit my oil pan with the centerlink.

They cost $19.00 and I paid $9.10 for shipping, for a total of $28.10.
I’m very happy with them and they fit and perform exactly as I needed them to. The part # is CP12028


dsc03140Because of the oil pan I can turn farther to the left than I can the right. To allow the stop to hit the steering arm on the passenger’s side (the side where I’m limited on turning) I had to mount the stop on the outer holes instead of the inner holes that the instructions say to use. You can see I used some washers to space up the stop to clear a bolt head from the lower ball joint.






She Runs!!

April 25th, 2009
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Here’s a video of the first start of the 383. We broke it in by running it about 25 minutes at various speeds between 2000-3000 rpm. Valvoline Premium Blue Classic 15W40 diesel oil was used for good protection of the camshaft and lifters. Needless to say, with open headers it was LOUD!!

Dad’s 1976 Nova

February 24th, 2009
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Here’s my dad’s 1976 Nova. It has a stock 250ci straight six and 3-speed automatic. It is slowly being worked on as well as acting as an optional daily driver.


1999 Chevrolet Prizm

February 23rd, 2009
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Here’s my daily driver 1999 Chevy Prizm. It’s a 3 speed automatic 1.8L four banger. I autocross it and drive in road rallyes with the Texas A&M Sports Car Club.  203,000+ miles and it’s still kickin’!


194 Straight Six

January 13th, 2009
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This is the original 194 cubic inch straight six cylinder engine. It ran just fine even after sitting for almost 13 years.

Rear End

January 13th, 2009
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I pulled the leaking rear end out and put new axle seals in and a new differential cover gasket along with new axle and carrier bearings. I also cleaned and painted the whole axle housing. 1″ Lowering blocks were also installed. The stock mono leaf springs were painted and new polyurethane bushings installed. Eventually I plan on installing Moser axles and an Eaton posi with 3.73 gears. Currently it just has the stock open differential and axles. Cal-vert split monos with caltrac bars are also planned.